Da Lat and the Easy Riders

Oct 30: Off to Da Lat

So we have this cheap alarm clock. Our bus left at 7:30, so we set the alarm for 6:30. When it went off, I accidentally set the time back an hour instead of just resetting the alarm. When it went off 5 minutes later, the clock said 5:35. Elated, we slept for another hour. When we got up, we leisurely started getting dressed, and when I put on my watch, I realized it was 7:40, not 6:40. I gasped in terror, and we started frantically shoving things into our bags. Phil yelled "RUN!", so I ran to the bus station to try to stop the bus and he went downstairs to pay for the room (which we had tried to pay for the previous night, but the owners just wanted us to pay in the morning). While the owner painstakingly slowly counted Phil's change, I was sprinting to the bus station to try and catch our bus. I got there at 7:45, but unfortunately it had left 5 minutes ago. After yelling at me for being late, the guy called the bus driver and he turned around for us (thank god). I don't think it was a big deal because there was only one other person on the bus (ha). Anyway, 8 rainy hours later we made it to Da Lat, found ourselves a hostel and went out to get some food. At this point it was pouring rain and also very cold (since we were now up in the mountains) so we settled for a place just down the street, then got some amazing dessert (homemade coconut cake and chocolate tart) and some after dinner drinks (hot chocolate and a kaluha coffee) and went to bed.

Oct 31: not Halloween in DaLat

We began the day wandering DaLat to try and find a tour agency that would take us around to see the DaLat sights (also some pants for me and a jacket for phil. both of these were rather difficult to find). After eating our first of many delicious Vietnamese sandwiches, having a great cup of coffee, and getting soaking wet despite the fact that we were wearing rain gear (aka a 50 cent plastic rain suit that all the Vietnamese wear), we found the Easy Rider cafe. After reading a bunch of hand-written reviews and chatting with the guides for a few minutes, we were sold on a three day trip up into the highlands. We were so excited we planned to leave the next day. We spent the rest of the day wandering, eating many delicious meals in the form of snacks from street vendors. After checking out a sweet market, FINALLY finding some warmer clothes, and getting the shit scared out of us by a couple of kids in Halloween costumes (which made us rather sad, since we were not in costumes nor would we be attending any parties), we headed back to the hostel for some warmth and sleep.

Nov 1: Sad rainy day in Da Lat

We woke up, all packed up and excited to get going on our journey, only to notice that it was pouring rain. The EasyRiders arrived and also agreed that while it was possible to start our journey, it might be a good idea to postpone our journey for one day. Sadly, we brought our bags back to our rooms, had a serious internet session, got some coffee and food, had another serious internet session and then started to head back to the hostel. On the way back, we passed the EasyRider cafe, where it looked like they were having a party. We smiled as we walked past (thinking this was a good sign) when we were called in by our guide Rocky to join them (an even better sign). We were given several beers and told it was our turn to sing karaoke. After many attempts at resisting, I gave in and sang a horrible rendition of 'Hotel California'. After a few more beers though, we didn't care, and Phil grabbed the guitar and he played and sang, and then he played while I sang, and everybody loved it. After some more beers and rice wine we decided we were very happily inebriated and perhaps it was a good idea to get some dinner since it was 8pm. We grabbed some curry snails and clams from a street vendor and headed home.

Nov 2-7: EasyRiders and the Central Highlands

Well, we planned a three day trip, but ended up loving it so much we kept going for six days. We simply can't really describe how amazing this trip was, but we'll try.

First, meet our guides

Hong: 60 years old, and one of the original Easy Riders. He was a lieutenant for special forces in the South Vietnamese army, and was in Saigon in 1975 when it fell. He was then sent to a 're-education camp' for 4 years. Afterwards he hunted for treasure for a few years (and found it!), and also ran a gold mine before becoming an Easy Rider in 1992 and has been doing it ever since

Rocky: 30 years old, used to be a boxer (hence his name). He spent 6 years at University, but loves Easy Riders so much that he refuses to get a 'real' job. He's been bankrupt two times (both restaurants), grew up on a coffee farm, and has a super cute 26 month old daughter that can already read.

So, this is how the trip functions: 1) you put your backpack up in a giant plastic bag and it is strapped to the back of the nice big bike (way nicer and more comfortable than any of the other bikes we have been on). 2) depending on the weather, put on your rain gear 3) get on 4) go

As we rode through the countryside, we stopped a lot along the way. Rocky and Hong took turns explaining where we were and why we stopped. They always talked with the people we were visiting, who were always happy to chat with us (with Rocky or Hong as a translator) and show us their family, home, or business. This was amazing since having a translator provided a more intimate link with the people we hadn't experienced before. Every stop is a different story to be told.

Food we saw being grown/processed/harvested: coffee, tea, roses, tapioca, passion fruit, rice (of course!), pepper, pineapple, curry, mushrooms. We saw how many other things are made/grown: silk and silk worms, drums, rubber trees, incense, rice cakes, rice gelatin roll-things, how gold is mined (using a boat!), snake farm

We saw and met many Vietnamese people and how their families make a living: some simply farm one thing (70% of the population are farmers), some farm several things (they buy rice, make rice wine. sell the wine to make money, and use the leftover rice to feed to the pigs, who then get drunk and quiet hehe. the pigs grow up and then they sell them and use the money to support their coffee farm and/or buy more rice), some make one thing (drums, or incense, or rice paper) some collect trash and recyclables (including scrap metal: shrapnel, old bombs, bullets, landmines. Hong translated that the lady looked at the bombs, then looked at us and said,"thanks americans", ha). Many of them asked us why we wanted to visit Vietnam ("because we have nothing here"), or commented on Phil's beard (and/or tried to pick him up), or just simply walked out to the road to look at us. And of course, there was the ubiquitous wave and "hello!" by most of the children we saw as we rode by. They often get really excited when we wave back.

We also visited several minority villages which was just amazing. A lot of times, they didn't even speak Vietnamese so our guides couldn't communicate with them very well. One of our most memorable visits is when we purchased a jug of wine (it is dehydrated, and you add water to drink it) and went to visit a family. Turns out, they were having a semi-party because it was cold and rainy outside, and had just cooked some fish and some rice-field rat (the rat was actually incredibly delicious, apparently because it ate only rice). The women prepared the jug of wine (added straw around the top, put in a straw, and added the water) and we passed around the jug of wine between all of us. It is a matriarchal society, so the oldest woman takes a drink first (she later gave Phil shit for not drinking enough wine, then drank 5 times, and made him drink 5 times, all the while glaring at him and hitting him on the arm hahahahah) . Also, when they get married it is the woman's family who offers a payment for the man. Rocky guessed that Phil's family would get offered about 5 water buffaloes (apparently a lot, because he is so big and strong), and of course I had to counter with an offer of 6 water buffaloes. (Phil's view on this experience: First of all, that old lady was a beast. Seriously, she could drink with the best of them. Also, she pretty much gave me shit the entire time. I think she was trying to get me drunk so I'd stay with them in the village and marry one of her daughters, but Steph's offer of 6 water buffalos is just too good to pass up) We also visited a family that used old American war helmets for cooking (for some reason they removed the liquid when we arrived...perhaps so Phil could wear it?). Another time we just sat and chatted with a 99 year old lady (she thinks she's 99, but isn't sure). Apparently there are a lot of old people living in these villages--living to 100 is not uncommon at all. We also met the chief of another tribe, who spoke absolutely no English or Vietnamese, just some French. He was so happy and just laughed and smiled the whole time, and he also played traditional music for us. Oh, and we always gave the children candy.

We stopped at lots of battle sites, and Hong explained what happened at each one. At most of them there is a large monument to the soldiers who fought for the North. Monuments for the southern Vietnamese who died have either been torn down, or are just small concrete blocks with a cup of incense on top. We drove up along the Ho Chi Mihn trail, and saw some of the old trail along side the new road. Hong proved to be an excellent resource through all these sites and offered us a good perspective on both old and new politics (ex. communism in 1975 vs now).

We ate great food--every meal consisted of 4-5 dishes, usually a soup, some tuna, some pork or chicken, some shrimp, and a huge pile of rice. We always ate till we could barely move and the meal cost 35,000 dong each ($1.50). It was great. Once we had a 'hot pot', where they just bring a steaming bowl of broth, and you add a bunch of fresh fish and vegetables. We also had some pretty bomb spring rolls, make-your-own-spring rolls, and some great crepes.

And it was beautiful. We always had a great view: hills everywhere, sometimes jungle, sometimes fields, sometimes fields cutting into the jungle. We saw lots of rivers. The best part was probably the last few days on the Ho Chi Minh trail, when we were straight up in the jungle. It was raining, it was misty, and we were just surrounded by jungle. Simply amazing. (also kind of cold...maybe why we both got sick...)

Sometimes it rained. Which wasn't too big of a deal, especially because we had super-duper rain gear (Phil got a little screwed on this part. he didn't get any rain boots because his feet are too big, and his rain pants were not really that effective). Sometimes the roads got really pothole-y. And sometimes it was really windy (which was definitely the most scary, but it only lasted for a little while). We saw a couple of accidents along the road.

We stayed at nice places, which was great, especially after being in budget hostels.

We sang karaoke. Twice. (once when we were still in DaLat, and once with Rocky and some of his friends). Karaoke means you get drunk (take a shot after every song or so) and sing your heart out and dance and eat fruit. (Phil's Dad would enjoy knowing he sang both Johnny Be Good and Great Balls of Fire)

Our guides were awesome. They were always making jokes and laughing, and telling us great stories. Rocky was always dancing or singing (even while we rode). We learned and got to see so much. We probably saw about 5 other white people during the whole 6 days. Rocky told us it would be a shock to see all the white people when we got to Hoi An. I didn't believe him, but he was so right. In summary, there is simply no way to truly express how amazing this 6 day journey was but we are happy knowing that it will always be one of our most cherished memories of our stay in Vietnam.